Richmond Peak accomplished

Day 4, 24 miles, Clearwater Lake camp to Seeley Lake town.

Richmond Peak would most certainly be a test at any time of year. Not because of its elevation, which is just shy of being a legitimate Divide crossing (the first one we'll do on 7/3 will be just a couple hundred feet less than today's pass). Nor because of its lack of "trail"--a loose term when we're talking about trees, several years old, growing in the middle of it. No, Richmond Peak garners respect because of both of these aspects as well as, just two weeks ago, that it received twenty-some inches of new snow. (This was, during the Tour Divide Race, where most participants got caught up in the bad weather and many quit.)

Fortunately for us, the weather today took a turn for the better (best!) and we were able to depart Clearwater Lake under improving conditions (yes, it rained in the morning). It will be the last we will see of the rain for some days, we're told.

The climb was all that we'd been warned about-- and a lot lot more: a huffhuff feat up 6,500 feet of decent (we'll grant you that) forest road before the trail turned to single track with evergreen sentinels and foot soldiers that stood firm in the middle (and to the side) of the so-called trail, seemingly trying to (and succeeding at ) prevent our progress. 

Then came the snow. What I had anticipated to be a stretch of a little more than a half-mile of snow on the trail turned into three miles of snow banks and snowmelt ponds and downed trees. Three miles of pushing, pulling, hefting and muscling our loaded rigs (mine around 75 lbs and Alaine's around 67) through the snow and up and over the trees -- downed and living both trying to snag the panniers from our racks, succeeding at snagging our ankles and calves and torsos and even arms.

It took us hours to gain the summit. That was hard, but we kept pedaling and felt good to have a third-day big hill behind us. But it seemed that we needed to be humbled, with the serious hike-a-bike through the snow that we faced for more (unexpected) uphill, and then even a stetch of snow-blocked downhill on the other side. 

In all it took us six and a half hours to go 24 miles. Today certainly gave us newfound respect for each other's internal strength. 

[I know, not a lot of snow pushing photos. Watch the video here 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0TCZR43VqSk&sns=em]

Two Bear Day

The quiet night creekside actually was pretty dry, but before we could rouse ourselves from our sleeping bags... a downpour. Then, by the time we were about ready for our second cup of coffee and letting our oats cook, it had stopped. Bonus. Timing of the rain has really been on our side!  So other than packing away a wet tent, it wasn't too bad.

We hooked up with Dennis from Boston (it was his day 8 or 9 and he's planning on doing the whole route from Banff, AB, to Antelope Wells at the US/Mexico border) for most of the day's ride, which involved  some a pretty, moderate maze of dirt and gravel logging roads with, yes, ups and downs, but nothing too excessive--or at least not worthy of a google map elevation profile with a grade percentage warning...

Day 3: Cedar Creek camp to Clearwater Lake camp - 48.4 miles, 7.5 average speed. With various stops, an 8.5 hour day.

During one of the early climbs, we came around a corner and --- there again, a young brown bear at the side of the trail ahead. Alaine was again up in front (she's afraid to get too slow on the hills because she might tip over, and I'm afraid of bears--at least ones that might want to turn me into bear poo). She made noise (frantic lalalalalas then jiggling her bear bell) and the bear ran off. Thankfully, no protective mama bear visible. But later, when we were going through some grassy single track, I saw something up ahead and said, "Wait! That's moving." And Alaine pulled out Finnian's old camp whistle/compass and started blowing like mad while I got some snaps. The big black finally turned around and toddled off.

That little black dot is a big bear (really)

The day gave us some awesome forest roads, rushing creeks, lush understories towered by fir and pine trees, hard but doable ups and fun downs on solid gravel. Damn fun, especially when we got into the fast range/ ranch area. Alaine doesn't like to go downhill too fast, but she enjoys when she can pedal fast and in control.

After Dennis left us once we reached Highway 83 we went on toward Holland Lake and got some great views of the Mission Mountains to the west and Swan Mountains to the east beyond which we rode on to reach our destination of Clearwater Lake.  Throughout the day we'd seen many colorful blooms, but some white puffy-headed ones made us marvel the most. And then we came upon a plateau-like area where the Dr. Seuss (on happy pills) plants were in crazy abundance.

We did have to push (yes, push) up a short stretch of dense understory single track ala Chuckanut's most difficult (a connector between forest roads), so Alaine had to retract her argument that we didn't have to train on the squirrley trails of the Chuckanuts. I certainly wasn't expecting it either, because of the wide roads we had been having, but, thankfully, it was a short push/heft and not pouring rain at the time. 

We reached the Clearwater Lake trailhead and coasted/walked our loaded bikes to lakeside where we found a spot for the tent -- perhaps too close for comfort for two canoe camping women but we weren't about to push further along the lake (and no nice lake access) after a 48 mile day.

A pair of nesting loons serenaded us to sleep. They also called back and forth to wake us the next morning. Well, the pelting morning rain made its noise too. But that was short lived, while the loons kept on through coffee and breakfast and breaking camp.

ph & ab

Baby Bear Sighting

You would think, coming from the Pacific Northwest, that rain wouldn't be a big thing. But when you're a Pacific Norhtwesterner vacationing in Montana in June, you sort of expect a Big Sun in the Big Sky. Not so for our Day 2: Bigfork (town in the Flathead Valley) to Cedar Creek (or some sort of creekside area in the Flathead  Nat'l Forest where camping was allowed), 38 miles, with a steep (Galby-like) climb of nearly 7 miles.

As one local would tell us, "We're having a record rainfall." Record or not, we still needed to get down the road.

The day's route would take us up and over the Mission Mountains (a low part, relatively speaking) and into the Swan River valley--a climb of  2000 feet over six miles. Did I mention rain? 

Suited up, we set to the task, Alaine's made more arduous because of the five additional pounds of food we picked up to get us through the "services-less" next several days. The hot and wet ride and climb was work but it didn't do us in. Even thigh we were only able to manage a few, the training rides at home we're paying off already. 

About a mile from the top we saw a young brown bear. Apparently we hadn't been making enough noise. Not wanting to encounter mama bear we made a lot more noise--the bear scampered off into the woods to the side of the forest road. No chance for a snap.

One lesson learned was that it is not necessary to remove rain gear during brief sunny periods as the weather would most assuredly return to rain, which it did.

A note about Montanans (at least on the back roads): Everyone waves (there's probably a reasonable argument to be made that Lopez Islanders are all former Montanans).

One other observation: if you're a crazy Monantan and you buy a new car, it's mandatory that you take your shiney new vehicle up a dirt road into the backwoods where you'll encounter even crazier cyclists traversing these nether regions. 

You can't beat creek side camping. Rain or not.

Over and out. 

After 8 months of planning and saving and dreaming ...

Day 1. Whitefish (via Amtrak's Empire Builder from Everett) to Bigfork, Montana. 46 miles. Casual enjoy-the-scenery pace of 10.8 mph.

Though the train departed a little late from Everett (thank you, Haven, for the drop off there!), the ride was pleasant and smooth. We were well fed before hand with a steamed cauliflower (a huge homegrown head) sauté with fresh homemade bread at my dad's -- Wellspring Farm-- but we were bummed that there was no viewing lounge car on our portion of the Empire Builder...  Even so, we met world adventurer Patsy in the dining car-- a woman from Belfast now living in Vancouver, BC,  who is a testament for embracing life and travel and good experiences. No overnight train trip is much to talk about-- some lovely views beyond Stevens Pass, a long quiet rainy stop in Spokane, lulled passengers coming and going through Idaho and western Montana ... the usual.

We were grateful that the train was an hour late coming in. We weren't grateful for the fact that the station closed twenty minutes after the train's arrival. So after awaiting for our bike boxes, our opportunity to clean up and change into biking stuff was lost. Thank goodness for builders' portapotties!

We began riding by 6/6:30 upon quiet roads on the north and eastern outskirts of Whitefish under grayish but cool skies. So many fluffy white tailed deer in the fields as we rolled by! Too early to find a place for breakfast in Whitefish, we beelined (along the official Divide route, so not truly beeliney) for Columbia Falls for a hearty breakfast with fabulous coffee at Cimmaron, then went on along county and farm and ranch and ranch-style-Montana-suburbia  roads the rest of the day. A favorite was the Foothill Road-- rolling and winding and scenic--but all roads took us between the Swan Mountains and the Flathead River. We had to stop for "second breakfast" at the much touted Swan River Cafe along the way and there enjoyed some actual sunshine.

Bigfork was a surprise-- quaint and artsy and more town than we expected -- as we rolled through on our way to the state park. The Swan River, which we followed for a few miles along trail to get to town, went from wide and calm and flowing fast, to a whitewater paddlers' challenge up to the roiling  bend when it reached town. We lucked out in a gallery walk night, but somehow missed (much to Paul's chagrin) the Flathead Brewery that is somewhere in town. Next time, right?

Rain. We encountered some drizzle along the ride, but nothing major. But after we pedaled through the state park and then stopped at the camp host to enquire... the heavens let loose! Thankfully the host had a canopy we could wait under... marveling... and then it stopped so we could pitch our tent and get settled in... for a much needed nap after the sleepless train ride and the cycle to Bigfork. And then the heavens let loose again! Amazing how loud, and louder, it could get, especially under a tent fly! It was after a lull in the rain and a wander to see Flathead Lake that we went into town for a stroll and such (but too late for any time at the library for the wifi...). Before hitting the hay, we stopped at Whistling Andy Distillery for local music and talk and tastings. A pretty cool place and barkeep.

We were snug in our tent by the time the rain the rest of the night ensued. Not a bad first day! 

-- Alaine 

Farewells

Thanks to all our  friends who came by the house yesterday to wish us well, enjoy some good cheer, and share summer excitement that you've already had or are planning to have. (Busy times abound! grandbabies, weddings, kayaking, SUPing, new jobbing, beaching, cycling, Aerostreaming, music-making, mountain climbing...)

But--we didn't take any pictures of you or the happening! That's not the best way to start our adventure diary, is it?

Grand depart:  tomorrow, 2:40, Amtrak, Everett, Washington.

Begin riding... Friday morning (anywhere between 5am and 9am, depending on oil and coal traffic...), Whitefish, Montana.

Today: final futzing and more farewells.

"Now, where exactly are you cycling?"

...a friend asked. Actually, many have asked...

For the most part, when people have wondered about our trip, my response has been..., in a nutshell: "We're going to ride our bikes from Whitefish, Montana, to Colorado along part of the Great Divide Mt. Bike Route established by the Adventure Cycling Association, before heading off route east over Rocky Mountain National Park and Estes Park to Loveland, CO... to see the friends whose invitation inspired this whole bailiwick... and then to Denver to visit my brother. We'll be crossing the Continental Divide something like 15 times... nearly every day involves a steep hill --up and down.... And bears."  

Before delving into and researching this adventure, I'd have been like most anyone when hearing this, with a something like "Wow..." but not really grasping the geography or the effort. (Even still I can't grasp it!) Suffice to say, we'll be covering a lot of varied territory, encountering some fascinating US history/culture, and facing a good number of physical and mental challenges. And bears.

The route is mostly forest road, with some highway and rural roads mixed in when we pass through a town. And, yes, a LOT of uphill, but from Paul's mapping and comparing to local rides we've done (various Chuckanut rides, Galbraith, Pine Lake, Mt. Baker Highway), I think should be able to handle the elevation percentages and distances alright. Will my knuckles be able to handle the downhills, though, is the question! 

An abbreviated version of our day-by-day route is below, with some of the towns underlined. The "Galby" references are for quick comparison to our local training rides; that way I can be mentally prepared for the climb...  (Mental preparation is a good percentage of what I need.)

Date           Where to Where, mileage, end place; meals

Thur., 6/26   Amtrak to Whitefish, MT; Everett station, 2:30 - Whitefish, 4:30 am next day

Fri., 6/27     Whitefish to Big Fork via Swan River Xing, 43.8. Wayfairer SP/Flathead Lake - LD trail       

Sat., 6/28     Bigfork to Cedar Creek CG 36.5mi - Galby. Cedar Creek CG - BBig Fork; LD trail

Sun., 6/29    Cedar Creek CG to Clearwater Lake 47.2mi. Clearwater Lake primitive dispersed - BLD trail

Mon., 6/30   Clearwater Lake to Seeley Lake, MT 23.6mi. Lodge? Big Larch CG? - BL trail; D town

Tue., 7/01    Seeley Lk. to Big Nelson CG  (via Ovando) 43.1mi. - B town; L Ovando; Dtrail

Wed., 7/02   Big Nelson CG to Lincoln, MT - 22.1mi. Hotel Lincoln? CG outta town?  BL trail; D town;

Thur., 7/03   Lincoln to Helena NF. 29.2 "Galby". Helena NF Campsite, primitive - BLD trail (LD town, if)

Fri., 7/04      Helena NF to Helena, MT -. Jorgenson's room,  BL trail; D town

Sat., 7/05     Helena to Park Lake - 20mi "Galby". Park Lake 1mi off route - Btown; LD trail

Sun., 7/06    Park Lake to Butte (via Mormon Gulch), 59.4, "Galby". Copper King Mansion RM 

Mon., 7/07   Butte to Parker Creek,  47.3, FLEECER, "Galby"-Parker Creek dispersed - B-Butte; LDtrl

Tue., 7/08    Parker Creek CG to Elkhorn Hotsprings (via Wise River) 40, "Galby-ish".  BLtrail; D Elkhorn

Wed., 7/09   Elkhorn to Bannack SP - 27mi. Bannack SP CG - B Elkhorn; LD Trail

Thur., 7/10   Bannack SP to Morrison Lake Turn ~47mi. Morrison Lake primitive - BLD on trail

Fri., 7/11  Morrison Lk (via Lima)-Red Rock River~65, RRRdispersed [or Upper Lk.CG)-Btrl, Ltwn, Dtrl

Sat., 7/12    RRR(MT) to Big Springs, ID (via Mack's Inn) - 57. Big Springs USFS - BL trl ; Dtown

Sun., 7/13   Big Springs to Warm River CG, ID (via Fish Creek Alt.), 49 mi. Warm River USFS - BLD trail

Mon., 7/14  WRCG (ID) to JDR Mem'l Hwy Cmpg (WY) ~43. Sites on Snake R. -BLD trail (or... cafe)

Tue., 7/15    JDR Mem'l CG to Jackson Lake (WY)- 18. Colter Bay Village  cabin,  B trail; LD town,

Wed., 7/16   Day 2 Colter Bay - Lay Day! 1st Virgin Voice or Data. Colter Bay/Jackson Lake; BLD town

Thur., 7/17   Colter Bay to Togwotee Mt. (via Turpin Meadow CG) ~31. Angels USFS; Btwn; LDtrl

Fri., 7/18     Togwotee/Angels  -Warm Spring Creek Area (via Brooks Lake) 39.7. Primitive - BLD Trail

Sat., 7/19    Warm Spring Creek -Whiskey Grove CG - 41.3 from camp. Whiskey Grove USFS, BLD trail

Sun., 7/20    Whiskey Grove - Pinedale, WY ~31. Chambers House B&B.  B Trail; LD town

Mon., 7/21   Pinedale - Little Sandy Creek - 49.8mi. primitive camping; B at B&B; LD trail

Tue., 7/22    Little Sandy Crk-Sweetwater River Xing via Atlantic City -47.3. Prim/BLM camp; BLtrail; DAC

Wed., 7/23  Sweetwater River Xing to A&M Reservoir - GRT BASIN #1 -  69mi.  BLD trail

Thur., 7/24  A&M Res.-Rawlins, WY-GRT BASIN #2 - 57. 1st Choice Rawlins room- BLtrail; Dtwn

Fri., 7/25     Rawlins-Aspen Alley area (CO)- 53mi "Galby". Little Sandstone Crk (outhouse), Btwn; LD trl

Sat., 7/26    Aspen Alley-Steamboat Lake (via Columbine) ~50. Steamboat LK cg/Bridge Island -BLD trail

Sun., 7/27    Steamboat Lake -  Steamboat Springs. ~33mi - WS T&S/bed confirmed-  BL trail; D town;

Mon., 7/28   Day 2 Steamboat Springs - Lay day! BLD town

Tue., 7/29    Steamboat Springs - Lynx Pass Cmpgd - 39.3 mi. Lynx Pass USFS - B town; LD trail

Wed., 7/30   Lynx Pass - Kremmling, CO - ~39mi. ?? Hotel Easton? or? ; BL trail; D town

Thur., 7/31   Kremmling, CO  -  Granby or Grand Lake (WS?) -  Green Ridge CG? Or WS,  BLD town;

Fri., 8/01     Granby/Grand Lake (or?) to Rocky Mt. Nat'l Park/Estes -WS "A" /bed - confirmed, BLD trail

Sat., 8/02    Estes to Loveland, CO - 33mi, arrive earlyish (raison d'voyage). Casa Cassells 

Sun., 8/03     Loveland and points nearby? Casa Cassells

Mon., 8/04    Loveland and points nearby? Casa Cassells

Tue., 8/05     Loveland to Denver. Casa Callen

Wed, 8/06    Denver & points… Casa Callen

Thur., 8/07   dismantle bikes, pick up car, Herz Engelwood noon Thur. - return Everett by 11:29 am Fri.

Fri., 8/08     arrive Everett by 11:29 am - get truck from Haven's; go visit Ed/Snohomish

Sat., 8/09    drive Snohomish to Bellingham - Whew!

The train leaves 11 days from today; the riding begins in 12 days. Am I sleeping much? Hell no, not with all the random thoughts and to-dos going on in my mind!

92 servings of coffee...

Between suggested lists from the Mountaineers guidebook, the Adventure Cycling Association, several riders who've done the Great Divide in the past, and our own touring/bike packing experience...the list of what to bring is extensive. It doesn't help that we'll be camping in pretty remote/primitive places at times, or between food and water sources for longish stretches... so the need for anything-can-happen first-aid items, across-the-gamut clothing for any weather, and what-if emergency spare bike parts and tools has made the needs list even longer. Oh, and don't forget the bear spray...

Checklist (check! as of today)

92 packets of Via coffee, Lido dried whole milk for coffee (portion out), Ola Loa vitamin/electrolyte powder (74) … (estimated on trail/camp meals: 23 breakfasts, 28 lunches, 29 dinners)

loud plastic whistles, bear spray(!), bear bells, helmets, bike gloves, maps, compass (on AB's whistle), waterproof matches, headlamps, sunglasses, prescription glasses

Schwalbe marathon mondial tires (thank you Kris, Julie & Methow Cycle Sport!), Six-inch locking pliers, 2 spare tubes, spare foldable tire, 3 tire irons, Tire pumps, patch kit, chain-rivet remover, 4 bottle cages, spoke wrench, spare spokes, spare cable, ubolts, nuts for screws, spare allen bolts, chain lubricant & rag, duct tape, patch/repair kit for bags/pads, Leatherman, bungee over-rack nets, clothespins

3-inch elastic bandage, assortment gauze patches & 2-inch roll & adhesive strips/tape (including butterfly bandages), moleskin, Sunscreen, lip balm /sunscreen, tweezers or clippers, TP, trowel, Insect repellent, Ibuprofen, lysine tablets,etc., antihistamine for insect stings/allergic reactions, wee sewing kit, antiseptic soap, antibacterial ointment, body soap, compact splint (aka duct tape), instant cold pack, rubber 1st aid gloves, chamois cream/sore muscle rub

2 pair padded riding shorts ea, down jackets, 2 tanks or short-sleeved tops of polypro/wicking fabric, 1 long-sleeved shirt wicking, poly/fleece jackets, wool or poly/fleece pants, poly/Lycra-blend tights/leggings, waterproof/breathable rain/windsuit (jacket with hood, pants), warm hats, sun hats(AB needs), cycling shoes, h20proof shoe covers, wicking gloves or mittens, cycling socks, comfy shirt for camp, snap-up blouse, understuff, camp socks, bandanas, bathing towels, personal stuff,  h20-able shoes for hiking/town, swim stuff

5 h20 bottles (x 750ml ea) =3750, 2 nalgene (1000ml)=2000, 2 hydration bladders + wine Platypus (=5,750ml combined) - total h20 capacity 11.5 liters; gravity h20 filter, steri-pen h20 filter, sleeping bags-20 degrees, king sheet/bag liner (modified/sewn), inflatable sleeping pads, tent w/ground cloth, camp chairs (a good decision we already know!), MSRstove & fuel, dishsoap, dish towel, camp rag, clothespins, clothesline (bear bag line), plates (thank you, Finnian!), cookset (w/ cups & bowls), sporks

cameras, extra ziplock bags, journal, pens, stamps, pencil, final day-by-day trip plan/elevation profiles (all 25 pages?!), ipad/client projects loaded, nano audiobook loaded, headphones, phone, backup phone, assorted chargers, (decided against solar charger), assorted batteries

To go: sun hat/AB, finish sleeping bag liner modification; razors, AB comb, hair things, dry shampoo(?), other food? (more bars, ground peanuts, tortillas? jerky?),  sign up for Safeway card,  Finn/caretaking prep, garden/house stuff, part-way shipments, bills, “calling” cards, figure if shipping mid-way, ummm... there's gotta be more...
....and then plans for a fare-well party… (because we might be eaten by bears...)
...and 2 weeks!

The Rules

A few "rules" I want to keep in mind for our trip.

• Get up early. 
• Be present and thankful for each day.
• The journey is the destination. Our itinerary is nothing more than a planing tool. If we don't make the necessary miles, no worries. 
• Problems will happen--it's part if the trip. Meet each day's challenges knowing that some of them can not be changed but all of them can be surmounted.
• Talk with the locals and, more importantly, listen to what they have to say.
• Always take time to talk with people who ask about our journey.
• Expect and embrace the unexpected.

--ph

Check. I agree to these rules and regulations.

--Alaine