After 8 months of planning and saving and dreaming ...

Day 1. Whitefish (via Amtrak's Empire Builder from Everett) to Bigfork, Montana. 46 miles. Casual enjoy-the-scenery pace of 10.8 mph.

Though the train departed a little late from Everett (thank you, Haven, for the drop off there!), the ride was pleasant and smooth. We were well fed before hand with a steamed cauliflower (a huge homegrown head) sauté with fresh homemade bread at my dad's -- Wellspring Farm-- but we were bummed that there was no viewing lounge car on our portion of the Empire Builder...  Even so, we met world adventurer Patsy in the dining car-- a woman from Belfast now living in Vancouver, BC,  who is a testament for embracing life and travel and good experiences. No overnight train trip is much to talk about-- some lovely views beyond Stevens Pass, a long quiet rainy stop in Spokane, lulled passengers coming and going through Idaho and western Montana ... the usual.

We were grateful that the train was an hour late coming in. We weren't grateful for the fact that the station closed twenty minutes after the train's arrival. So after awaiting for our bike boxes, our opportunity to clean up and change into biking stuff was lost. Thank goodness for builders' portapotties!

We began riding by 6/6:30 upon quiet roads on the north and eastern outskirts of Whitefish under grayish but cool skies. So many fluffy white tailed deer in the fields as we rolled by! Too early to find a place for breakfast in Whitefish, we beelined (along the official Divide route, so not truly beeliney) for Columbia Falls for a hearty breakfast with fabulous coffee at Cimmaron, then went on along county and farm and ranch and ranch-style-Montana-suburbia  roads the rest of the day. A favorite was the Foothill Road-- rolling and winding and scenic--but all roads took us between the Swan Mountains and the Flathead River. We had to stop for "second breakfast" at the much touted Swan River Cafe along the way and there enjoyed some actual sunshine.

Bigfork was a surprise-- quaint and artsy and more town than we expected -- as we rolled through on our way to the state park. The Swan River, which we followed for a few miles along trail to get to town, went from wide and calm and flowing fast, to a whitewater paddlers' challenge up to the roiling  bend when it reached town. We lucked out in a gallery walk night, but somehow missed (much to Paul's chagrin) the Flathead Brewery that is somewhere in town. Next time, right?

Rain. We encountered some drizzle along the ride, but nothing major. But after we pedaled through the state park and then stopped at the camp host to enquire... the heavens let loose! Thankfully the host had a canopy we could wait under... marveling... and then it stopped so we could pitch our tent and get settled in... for a much needed nap after the sleepless train ride and the cycle to Bigfork. And then the heavens let loose again! Amazing how loud, and louder, it could get, especially under a tent fly! It was after a lull in the rain and a wander to see Flathead Lake that we went into town for a stroll and such (but too late for any time at the library for the wifi...). Before hitting the hay, we stopped at Whistling Andy Distillery for local music and talk and tastings. A pretty cool place and barkeep.

We were snug in our tent by the time the rain the rest of the night ensued. Not a bad first day! 

-- Alaine