Fast forty-four into Fort Collins

This morning's forecasted rain slept in so we we're pleasantly surprised by sunshine and blue sky. Coffeed and oatmealed we rolled down the highway into a slight headwind, but who cares? We were on pavement going downhill. To boot, we were in Roosevelt National Forest's Poudre Canyon. Our friend Dave (Hi Dave!) had mentioned how lovely Cache la Poudre was when he had toured through on a cross country bike trip.

He wasn't kidding. La Poudre was full of incredible views. With striking rock features cut into either side of the canyon and a river of rapid after rapid, it felt like the last little stretch of Highway 2 into Leavenworth (but today's twisting and turning highway went on for thirty beautiful miles). We were also fortunate that Thursday traffic heading down-canyon was very little so that we could spend time looking at the sites instead of the road.

Just like Leavenworth, the canyon walls suddenly open up to the wide expanse. We were now decidedly on the east slope of Rockies.

With ten miles to go we caught a paved bike path into old-town Fort Collins where we had booked a room for our "last night on the trail" (in some ways).

One of Fort Collins' arted up outdoor pianos.

Day 35, Thursday, July 31. 44 miles, 14.1 avg spd (record for the trip!), 3:05 ride time. Next stop: a short ride to visit Bill and Maggie in Loveland.

No sweat day

Literally. Or at least not perceptibly. What with the rain and abnormally cool temperature of an end of July day...  in Colorado.

Boy howdy-- what a wet morning! But we stayed cheery, took our time (waiting in vain for a change in the skies), and didn't actually start the ride up Highway 14 until after 10. We've brought and carried wet weather gear on this trip--and funny that, until yesterday, we haven't had to use it since the second morning riding out of Big Fork, Montana.... and then that surprise thunder/lightening storm in the valley on our way from Lima, Mt., to the Red Rock Lakes National Wildlife Refuge. So we finally accepted the inevitable, garbed fully up and headed out. 

It was a steady pour as we rode the 12 miles uphill to the pass, but at least the grade was easy and we just took our time. While the shoulder wasn't always ideal (with the tell-tale "bicycles on road" sign at times), the rainy midday midweek traffic was thankfully mindful, and there was very little big-truck activity.

Even that last 3 miles of steep to reach the summit wasn't that bad, with ample spots to pause, look around, and marvel even though it was so cloudy and wet. With all the rain and chill, it was our first climb, our first full ride actually, this entire trip of no sweating! After stopping at the top and before eating our tuna cheese wraps under cover of the park's restrooms, we even donned hats and extra gloves before the downhill. Brrr!!

And, boy, on the other side of Cameron Pass It's waay gorgeous! Even with not being able to see super well through the drips off our helmets (and my fogged up, rain spattered glasses), we were in awe at the scenery as we came down the east side--quite different from the west, which was simply more forested (or de-forested, sadly, from the pine beetle devastation). The Crags, Sleeping Elephant, highway-side rushing creeks and then--the Poudre River and Canyon! Awesome, the rushing flow, the variety of trees and other vegetation, the angular cut to the rocks of canyon...!

We should have taken more pictures, but...the rain and cold and wanting to get down all sort of dampened that spirit a bit.

On our way down, we spotted a family--with a wee baby-- of mountain goats. Hard to see them camouflaged as they are like the rocks. We'll load a video of them later when we have faster internet.

If we called the KOA cabin of yesterday "cute," well, that was just being generous in our gratefulness for being able to quickly get out of the rain. Last night, we'd briefly checked options for camping and more substantial shelter on the east side of the pass in anticipation of a rainy, wet ride and had found several reasonable. (Quite a difference from all our previous days on this trip, with the ever present concern about available camping areas with some sort of water source--strange...how different from week to week) This place where we ended up, across from a "resort" type of concern, is just a small family operation, run by the very chatty and open-souled June (heard all about her 3 kids and her eyesight and her chicken and her turtle and more before we could pull our wet selves from her office!). The wee cabin across from June's home is backed up against the the canyon wall, looking across at the other side and overlooking the river gorge. We have a kitchenette, a big comfy bed (though I'm still having trouble sleeping, what with the ribs...), and even a faux fire in front of which we are drying all our foul weather gear while cozied up on the couch! The roar of the Poudre surrounds us and blocks out any traffic.

We could have continued on and ridden all way to Fort Collins easy peasy--well, at the time we got here when there was a lull on the rain and it seemed almost a shame to stop so soon-- but it's probably good we didn't, since the lull was short lived. Yep--it continued on through the evening. Plus, we're enjoying stretching out these last couple days on the road. 

We're still a little regretful to have altered our plans, but super happy we got to see the Poudre. And this way we were able to throw away, a couple days early, the rusty, chipped garden trowel we've been using for our "dig your own" poopholes.

Wednesday, July 30, day 34: North Park, Colorado, KOA at the entrance to State Forest State Park, to the area of "Rustic" and Canyonside Campground:  37 miles, 12 uphill (3 steep), all on Highway 14, 3:10 ride time, 11.9 avg spd.

Feels so strange to be nearing the end of this trip...

Last pass of the ride today

We'll, it's still raining, less the deluges of yesterday and last night, but a steady, springlike heavy drizzle, thick gray skies, and an actual chill.

We're off as soon as we can muster our minds for our last big climb day of our ride... We're estimating maybe a 35-? 45-mile? day? Not sure, with the rain, where we'll tie up for the night.

The actual climb may be only 3 miles to gain Cameron Pass, which will also we our highest pass of some 10,000 ft.

Alaine's brother Callen, who lives in Denver, texted on Monday morning  that maybe he'd try to meet us along this stretch, as he'd never done  "Cam Pass" -- we'll see. It would be fun to see him on the road, but we're not expecting it, what with the weather... 

Kinda glum, but we can handle it. And it's all pavement from here! 

We got the video of the hummingbirds this morning:  https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=JluRM5RUYNc

It's Tuesday, and it feels like the PNW. Plus... Finnian to the rescue

It's flippin' raining.

It feels, late this evening, actually just like the Pacific Northwest. C'mon! It's our last week, days, of riding! We want sunny Colorado!

Didn't start originally like this today. It was actually quite pleasant though overcast when we left from Dumont Lake. We'd hope to get some more pictures of the incredible wildflowers at in the meadows leading up to  and around the campground, but without morning light it just wasn't as vibrant so we missed out on that, but that's okay we got some yesterday.

We started on road on Highway 40 and soon came to the actual crossing of the Continental Divide, our last crossing, number 15, at Rabbit Ears Pass.

The road was quiet, construction crews were just beginning to set up as we got to our turn off of 40 onto Highway 14. This was, also, a fast highway for cars as well as cyclists, but not too much traffic and the shoulder, though at times rugged, was not bad. We had a blast riding with easy revolutions and really good speed (in fact, at one point I got to my fastest ever speed of 34.5 mph at a controlled coast!).

We rolled through farms and the beginning of the Arapahoe River basin. It seemed as if each farm was in some stage of harvesting its crop of grass so that the green fields really stood out and the smell of hay dust was downright pleasant.

We were really rolling along until we got to the junction of Highway 14 and County Road 34. Because we were still on our "Divide" trip, we weren't going to shy away from a little dirt and gravel road. So while at the library on Sunday, Paul had researched how to get from Dumont Lake to the area of the State Forest State Park which is in an area called Northpark, Colorado. Our route through the network of county roads was going to save us quite a few miles because the highway ran many miles north to the town of Walden before dropping back (just as many miles) south. 

34 was pleasant and we were kind of glad to be back on gravel because that's what this route is about. But then there were some questions about whether we should veer left or right. There wasn't quite as much signage (unlike Wyoming) so there was some hesitancy, but we continued on and when we made it to our next junction, Highway 125, we weren't sure whether to go right or left because things were not as exact as when Paul had checked on Google maps. So we squirreled around a bit and then reasoned that our next county road was to the north (and if it wasn't, Walden (and Hwy. 14, would be)).

Still looking for our next county road (now 32) we saw a sign for Arapahoe National Wildlife Refuge Headquarters and decided to go ask them. The trouble was, it was up a steep hill followed by a steep decent plus another mile of travel. Once we got up the steep hill and saw how much further it would be, continuing on to Walden was starting to look a lot better. We started to turn around and for some reason I looked at the AT&T go phone and saw that it actually looked like it might be working (it hasn't worked for most of the trip) and tried to call Finnian.

Fortunately he was home and was able to get on his computer and confirm that we, indeed, did need to go up and down the steep hill, past the headquarters to reach 34. We also called him a couple more times for reassurance when we had questions about the route. So, thanks to Finn for saving the day! (We did try to call Finn again once we reached the main highway but the phone wouldn't work - go figure.)

14 to 34 to 125 to 32 to 25 to 27 to 14 (right where it all started). It was a mix of just about everything from hardpack to sand, and a reminder of the Divide route. We donned and doffed and then donned once more our rain gear as clouds finally overtook us.

Once we made it to the State Forest State Park we, unfortunately, discovered that the immediate area was more for the maintainance buildings and that the actual campgrounds were a good 5 to 10 more miles down the road. And, then, it began to rain-- in earnest.

Meanwhile a KOA, with cute cabins that sat right next to the state park entrance, was looking like a good alternative. So we zoomed over there and popped in to check it out. They had two cabins left and we snagged one. By the time we got our bikes on the porch and sat inside for a moment to reflect on things, the skies let loose and the rain poured so we just lay down on the bed and took a nap and listened to a good three hours of thunder and deluge. Seriously.

The fire pit that was dry when we got here was totally flooded and overflowing when we stepped out to head to the showers. The rain continued, but nothing stopped the immense number of hummingbirds that were all over the KOA, apparently fostered for years and years and evidently filling up, like bears readying for hibernation, before heading south-- according to the guy here. Really amazing number and activity and audacity and sound and color. A treat. Shoulda gotten it on video...

So tonight we're safe undercover, not even very wet from the earlier rain. Bonus is that there's internet (albeit, we need to be sitting in the laundry room, the bathroom, or by the office somewhere (though, at least most of those places allow us views of the hummingbirds)). We're little anxious about tomorrow because of the forecast for 80 percent rain. Yep, feels like home, though home might not have the threat of lightening....  We will be riding, probably, in the rain all day tomorrow to get over Cameron Pass, and then, hopefully, find a campground, or maybe if we decide to and are lucky, find another cabin along the way for our last night out on the "trail" before we reach Fort Collins (which is a new destination on the route, but we're looking forward to seeing the much-taked about town, even if in the rain). 

Day 33, Tuesday, July 29 - Dumont Lake to State Forest/North Park/Walden, CO, area KOA (woohoo). 53 miles, 4:45 ride time, with an average of 11.1 mph.

Turning East Instead of South

Today, we not only said goodbye to our fabulous Warm Showers hosts, we also said goodbye to the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route. 

With our original plan, worked out so many months ago, We had intended to head a couple more stops south on the GDMBR, as far as Kremmling, Colorado, before turning east for Rocky Mountian National Park and Estes for our stop in Loveland to see friends Bill and Maggie Cassels, then on to Denver to visit Alaine's brother Callen for the first time every. But the weather forecast - 30%-40% chance of afternoon thunderstorms - had us looking for options other than higher elevation (12,000) treeless roads and passes full of lightening strikes and nowhere to hide.

So instead, after a leisurely breakfast at a Steamboat creekside hotspot, time outside the public library to catch up on last minute writing and things with Finnian, then a stop to provision for our last 4 days/3 nights on the trail, we headed east toward Rabbit Ears Pass on Highway 40. With the plan of Arapaho National Wildlife Refuge and State Forest (tomorrow), Poudre Canyon (Wednesday), and Fort Collins (Thursday), where we'll turn south for the final 15 or so miles to Loveland. What route we'll take to get to Denver we don't know, but that's week.

Today was a short day, with no real wind to speak of, but it included an ass-kicker of a hill on highway that went on for 14.5 miles before it leveled off (only to make a couple more vertical leaps the remaining distance to the campground turnoff). But the climb was on pavement (good) with lots of traffic (bad--and the noise of it, too, is a bane for Alaine), though with periodic level(ish) spots every mile or two for a breather.

Catamount Lake below our ride up Rabbit Ears

But now we are at Dumont Lake Campground where there are still many pale purple asters, Queen Anne's Lace, lupine, a sunflowerish bloom and other flowers in fields and meadows surrounding. As at other stops, we were grateful for a body of fresh water to refresh our own bodies, a nice campsite, and free, foraged-by-Alaine firewood.

A thunderstorm rolled in to the north and east of us this afternoon--pretty loud and ominous enough for us to batten the hatches and wait to see what transpired. Luckily it stayed dry where we were at and we were able to enjoy our fire, dinner, and even the mostly well-behaved Boy Scout troop nearby. Life is good. 

Day 32- Monday, July 28. Steamboat Springs to Dumont Lake Campground (USFS). 25.3 miles, 3:18 ride time, 7.6 avg spd.

On We Go

At some point today, we entered Colorado. When you're biking on forest and unimproved county roads, you don't always know where the delineation is. Or, for that matter, if you're on the correct road! (On that note, Wyoming was, for the most part, the best for directional signage on this route, especially the forest lands.)

With a nice clear day and, best of all, no wind, we continued on from our campsite at Battle Creek and followed what we thought was the road that the gray line on the ACA map represented which would bring us back to the route. 

We had only made it a couple miles when we came upon the forest's latrine. I mean there was poop of different kinds all over the road and not a clear line was to be had for our tires. I managed to skirt most of it, but Alaine wasn't so lucky and her rear tire siezed up, encumbered by what stuck to her tire and then lodged up under her fender.

We had to remove the wheel just to clean things up to get rolling again. But the mystery remained, who made all the poop?

We rode on, then... aha! That's whose poop! 

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=z6xIV0Dg9oQ

Mystery solved, we continued on down the forest road seeing some amazing landscape, old cabins, soaring hawks and vistas to peaks across the valley which more or less confirmed we were on the right route.

But then we came upon the "Private Property, No Public Access, No Turn-Around" sign. We don't want to trespass, but neither do we want to go back the nine miles when we can see the road were looking for a mile from where we're standing. Alaine says, "What're they gonna do? Shoot us? And I'm thinking, yes. But Alaine reasons that, "We can be charming like Butch Casidy and the Sundance Kid if it comes to that." Or just be genuinely contrite, "we're lost, were sorry, please let us pass." 

Continuing on, we came upon a structure tucked in the trees. We hallooed, but no response. Further on we went through a chained (but not padlocked) gate, then another and another, slowly downhill through lush and stunning pasture, riding along the ranch roads past grazing cattle. One ranchhand (we assumed) drove by on an ATV but didn't express concern over us and all our kits cycling through on the property. When we got to the ranch houses, Alaine walked up, yoohood, and instead of the imagined shotgun wielding old farmer a young woman came out and first thing asked, "Do you need water?" So welcoming, for all our concern about trespassing. She was not the owner, but said it was fine, and she'd let the owners know of our passage as well as our concern that we didn't abide by the sign. All was okay. Not so bad after all. 

At the end of the ranch drive, we crossed the Little Snake River and returned to the official route, gravel road, which then traversed the ginormous property of Three Forks Ranch. It's not so much a working ranch as a hunting and fishing ranch for the very exclusive and even touts it's own private ski hill.

On tot the Routte National Forest and climbing, climbing (30 miles of it, steady) until the little outpost of Columbine, where we had some cold rootbeer before the 3 mile descent to Steamboat Lake, where we'd hoped to pitch a tent.

Campground full. Packed. RVs and tents and weekend campers everywhere, not many trees and no inviting lake access, and "no camping permits available." Discouraged, but not, in truth, really wanting to stay with the crowd and conditions, we decided, yep, again, to "push on." Filled all or water bottles in case... we didn't know where we'd end up, but... decided, Let's see if we can find camping along the way, or maybe even go all the way to Steamboat Springs. 

We rolled along, toying at, below and above (meaning climbing) at 8000 feet for about 19 miles until crossing the Elk River and reaching the corner Clark Store. There, super fun-loving and helpful workers (owners?), internet to check on options, cold OJ with our warmed from the day's sun tuna, cheese and spinach wraps. A busy, happy, happening place with a great selection of about anything a traveler could need.  And then the winds picked up, skies got dark. And though a nice guy recommended a camping area not too far off our route (which is not on the ACA map...) we opted to look for a room in Steamboat. Most places booked, but the Clark Store ladies were gracious about us using their phone to call around, and we got a room. 

On the way, rain started, so garbed up in rain gear and get to Steamboat. A fast ride with Paul pulling, traffic being mostly courteous to give us room, especially in the stretches that started with that ominous signage: "Bicycles on Road" (meaning, no shoulder). Fast, through rolling farm country, fields of hay mid or post harvest, horses, a really beautiful stretch between Clark and Steamboat... and the rain let up

and then Alaine's sudden yelling snapped Paul from his focused pull, "Turn right, Paul! Turn right! Turn right, NOW!"

Butcherknife Brewery (Alaine had stared at the place for several seconds trying to figure why a knife sharpening shop would seem so hip looking, so it was within a few yards when she hollered to turn) had only been open for six weeks but thier Amputator IPA tasted like they were old professionals. 

We had a great talk with Big Rob who was working the bar but also works for Big Agnes, based in Steamboat, and shared stories. 

Then it was on to our motel to park our bikes (up the stairs!), get some food, then showers (yes, showers after, since it was after 8 when we went to eat), and konked out.

Day 30, Saturday, July 26, Battle Creek "campground" (WY) to Steamboat Springs, CO

66 miles (was supposed to have been 33), 7:36 ride time (though overall an 11-12 hour day with stops, 8.6 avg speed (lots of hill climbing!)

We're going to go vacation here next year!