With a 7:15 am start (after saying a quick good morning and goodbye to the slivery moon), almost 6 liters of water filtered and packed for the day (we hoped to get more at a creek crossing later in the day), and half the whiskey, we were ready to tackle the first official day crossing the Great Basin.
The air was still cool when we rode out, and the road was a bit smoother than the day before, but the heat kicked up quickly as we traversed, up and down, the scrabby land. Solo or small herds of pronghorns distracted our view, except when we were watching out for deathly rabbit holes in the middle of the road!
Though not too obvious, we evidently crossed 4 national historic trails that converged in what is known as the Sweetwater Corridor of central Wyoming -- the Oregon, the Mormon Pioneer, the California, and the Pony Express. With the landscape essentially unchanged from the 19th century, we have new appreciation for the tough crossings for all those folks back then--and without maps or advice where to find water!
At our 12th CD crossing about 34 miles into the day, we crossed into the Grear Basin, where we encountered more headwind than we'd hoped. (Word was that generally north-to-south has the more favorable winds...but not for us two!). Terry, from New Zealand, drew the lucky straw today, enjoying his tailwind as he and we reached a "golden spike" on the route. He had intended to ride from Vancouver, BC, to Banff, and then head south, but because of snow, he ferried to Port Angeles, then rode the coast to San Francisco, then east to Salida, Colorado, then caught the route north. What a good, lighthearted soul, and the first other besides Denis riding more a touring bike, like us.
The one creek we'd read would likely have water was dry... Disconcerting and disheartening, so we were all the more anxious to get to the reservoir, but the head and sidewinds of the afternoon didn't make things easy. Nor the return of washboard and slow-going roads. (You tired of hearing this??) But we enjoyed distant vistas of Green and Crooks mountains.
What a relief to get to A&M Reservoir--a mile off the official route, but a strongly recommended spot for water -- and find it peaceful and only inhabited by fish, fishlings, and entertaining bug-swooping birds. We dunked (Paul) and splashed (Alaine) the refreshing water over our dusty bodies and clothes, then settled on a waterside patch of sandy-sorta grass for our camp. All alone again! (Terry said the night before was like a party of riders there...). After a serious kick up, the wind died down. Dinner, with melted pepperjack cheese and hummus added to the freeze dried beef stroganoff-- wasn't too bad. Plus there was the rest of the whiskey!
The sunset reflections on the water were rich, the stars in the dead of night soothing, and even the startled yaps and howls of coyotes when Alaine stepped out for a pee --all made the A&M a favorite spot.
Day 27, July 23, 2014, Diagnus Well to A & M Reservoir
58 miles, 9.3mph avg, 6:12 ride time
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